
Salvador de Bahia
After the excitement of Rio, we had a full day at sea before our first port of call – Salvador de Bahia. The capital of Brazil until 1763, and now the capital of the Bahia region and of African Brazil, Salvador has a population of 3.2 million and boasts the largest and liveliest street carnival in the country. The city is built on a series of cliffs and hills at the end of a peninsula separating Brazil’s largest bay, Baia de Todos os Santos from the Atlantic. The bay is dotted with beaches and islands, some privately owned and others for public use and served by ferries.
Salvador is divided into two levels, the Upper City, home to the Pelourinho and historic centre and the Lower City, with the commercial and docks areas. The steep hills dividing the two levels are connected by a public lift (Lacerda Elevator) and a funicular railway. Most of the interesting sights in Salvador are in the Centro Historico, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with one of the largest collection of baroque buildings in the world.

Lacerda Elevator and view from the upper city, Salvador
At each port, a local tourism officer came on board and manned a desk to assist passengers with maps and information. We had decided to explore Salvador independently and asked the representative for directions to the Lacerda elevator and an ATM (we hadn’t seen one since arriving in Brazil – even on our brief outing in Rio). She explained that there was no ATM in the port area but a few centavos were needed for the elevator. She then delved into her own purse for 60 centavos (about 25p) and urged us to take the coins, refusing to take a US$ in exchange. The Lacerda elevator, one of the landmarks of Salvador, would take us from the nearby Mercado Modelo market in the Lower City up to Praça Municipal (Tomé de Sousa) and the historic centre in the Upper City.
Coins in hand, we disembarked and walked the short distance to the market area where we joined a short queue for the elevator. After being whisked up 236 feet in about a minute, we stepped out onto the Paço Municipal – a large plaza with views of the bay on one side and the Palacio Rio Branco on the other. The impressive white building was once the headquarters of the colonial government of Brazil, and today houses Salvador’s Chamber of Commerce and state tourist office.
We took photos of the plaza and views of the bay and elevator, then walked into the city’s most famous colonial square, the Terreiro de Jesus, which is surrounded by churches, including a Baroque cathedral (Catedral Basilica), museums and 17th-century houses painted in pastel colours. Although recently renovated, the square seemed in a state of chaos; the recent carnival’s temporary buildings were being dismantled and added to the noise and dust of other building and roadworks.
This part of Old Salvador is known as the Pelourinho and is renowned for its cobbled narrow streets and adjoining squares lined with old buildings and ancient churches, each with its own fascinating history. Some of the colonial houses have been converted into restaurants, small hotels, shops and bars from which African rhythms roll forth. Other buildings have become artists’ workshops, galleries or handicrafts shops – their colourful wares spilling out over the narrow pavements. On some streets, smiling turbaned women in voluminous white dresses handed out advertising fliers and posed for tourist cameras.

Afro-Brazilian ladies in Salvador de Bahia
We retraced our steps back to the cathedral and found the entrance hidden behind some roadworks machinery. It is one of Salvador’s many impressive grand churches and we paid a few US dollars to enter. The interior felt cool and calming after the heat and frenetic activity outside. Originally built as a Jesuit college , the cathedral’s high vaulted panelled ceiling is made of carved and gilded wood. It has a grand Rococo altar, side chapels and many other interesting rooms and surprising features such as a quiet garden with a statue of Christ the Redeemer.
Our hearts sank when we returned to the elevator for our ride down to the Lower City, as a long queue stretched round the square. We patiently stood in line for about half an hour as only three of the four elevators were working. When we finally emerged, the queue for the ascending elevator was even longer than at the top and snaked right down to the port.
You can’t visit Salvador without remembering the suffering and mistreatment of the African slaves during the 17th – 19th century. It is a fitting tribute that their legacy lives on in the culture, monuments and museums of this remarkable city.