I’m spending a few days in the beautiful Languedoc-Roussillon region in southern France visiting a couple of thermal spas.
Flying from Stansted to Perpignan, our first stop was the small town of Amélie les Bains, where the curative hot springs have been easing aches and pains since 200 AD. We stayed at the Hotel La Pinéde, a pleasant three-star hotel and a member of the Chaine Thermale du Soleil, a group of French thermal spa hotels with healthy menus devised by leading chef Michel Guérard. My room had a tiny balcony with views of the town and surrounding hills. We spent a pleasant evening sampling the local wines and some of Michel Guérard’s delicious and healthy cuisine.

View from Hotel La Pinede, Amelie les Bains
The next morning, before visiting the thermal spa, we drove into nearby Ceret – a picturesque small town with tall plane trees lining the roads and a popular haunt of artists. in the early 1900s, Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse lived and painted in the area. The Musée d’art moderne de Ceret displays many examples of their work including some of Picasso’s lesser known colourful ceramics. After touring the permanent exhibits, we looked around a temporary exhibition by Spanish artist Riera I Arago. His fascinating sculptures use recycled materials and flowing water and much of his work is inspired by machines, particularly planes and submarines.
It was fun exploring the quaint little town, which has a large church and some quaint shops including some tempting patisseries.’ We met up for lunch on the terrace of the Hotel Vidal, under vines laden with bunches of small black grapes, which our convivial host encouraged us to sample. The tiny grapes were sweet with a surprising strawberry flavour!

We drove back to Amélie les Bains for an enjoyable couple of hours in the Roman spa – one of two such facilities in the town. The valley and mountainous landscape in which Amélie-les-Bains is situated has become a ‘station verte de vacances,’ an award given to areas in France with outstanding natural beauty that also boast a natural attraction. Amélie-les-Bains numerous sulphuric thermal springs (62 degrees at source) are the ‘natural attraction’ and are were once thought to have magical curative properties. The warm waters are still used in the treatment of various health conditions, but are increasingly being used for wellness and relaxation with packages and individual treatments at very reasonable prices.
After a very pleasant couple of hours of hydrotherapy in the historic Roman spa and soaking in the warm thermal pool, we piled back into the car and drove through some wild and spectacular scenery to the remote spa town of Molitg les Bains. We are spending two nights in the 3-star Grand Hotel, another member of the Chaine Thermale du Soleil. After time to unpack and settle into our charming rooms overlooking the wooded gorge, we meet up for dinner for more of Michel Guérard delectable dishes. The staff here are so friendly and Pascal Daube, the hotel manager is an absolute treasure!

Lovely Moltig les Bains
Molitg’s thermal waters are rich in sulphur and sodium and uniquely, fresh water plankton is found in the deep river gorge of the Castellane river. As much as 20 to 40 litres are carefully harvested every nine days for use in the spa. The live plankton contains algae and friendly bacteria that secrete anti-inflammatory substances to heal and moisturise the skin. The plankton is applied on strips of fine gauze to areas of the skin needing treatment and has a noticeable and rejuvenating effect after even one treatment.
After such a feast at dinner on our first evening, the breakfast buffet seems nondescript by comparison. I just have time for some French bread and jam and half cup of coffee before finding my way to the Salon de Beauté. I have a relaxing facial that finishes with the application of a plankton mask. It may be my imagination, but my skin seems to be tingling slightly? Afterwards, my complexion looks fresher – as though I’ve had eight hours sleep instead of my usual five!
Another fantastic lunch – a healthy but hardly slimming feast washed down with a few glasses of local wine, which we eat sitting outside on a large table in the sunshine! It may be October, but the sky is cloudless and it feels as warm as a summer day.
Mid-afternoon, we change into swimsuits and bathrobes and ready to experience Moltig’s thermal waters. The spa has 45 treatment cabins as as well as a large thermal pool with massage jets and a kaolin pool. We have an programme of different treatments – each lasting about 20 minutes and using the warm thermal water in different ways – showers, sprays, steam heat, hoses and baths. After our treatments, we slip into the warm spa pool with its powerful massage jets and finish our spa session in the kaolin pool. Combining kaolin (a type of white clay from central France) with thermal water results in a healing and buoyant liquid, which aids mobility and in which we float effortlessly. Fantastic!
Dinner on our second and final evening is in the dining room of the Chateux de Riell – the five-star boutique hotel, situated up the hill from the Grand Hotel. Hosted by the charming Monsier Daube, dinner is a concoction of gourmet dishes that includes snails and other local delicacies and wines. Afterwards, the head chef comes to the table so we can thank him for his efforts. We are amazed that someone so young (early 20s) could create such a sophisticated menu. Undoubtedly a star chef in the making!