Hong Kong International Airport

Just landed at Hong Kong International Airport in a huge rainstorm. We were not allowed to disembark immediately, as with the storm directly overhead, it was too dangerous to connect the airbridge. Eventually we were allowed off and had to go through security to have our hand luggage screened before being allowed airside again. I was impressed that the X-Ray picked up a tiny aerosol of Rescue Remedy in one of the inner pockets of my handbag, which I’d forgotten.

I’m currently in transit on my way home from Sydney and writing this in the departure lounge alongside the gate. Free Wi Fi is available throughout the airport, which is great for writing a quick blog or checking emails. There’s  just been an announcement that the lightening has knocked out some of the airport systems and our flight back to London is delayed.

I think Richard Branson must have read my last blog – today’s  flight from Sydney had a separate drinks trolley service, followed by dinner and coffee was served too! What’s more  – halfway into the flight, Cadbury’s milk chocolate bars were distributed – a tasty treat!

This is my fourth visit to this magnificent airport – but I have yet to have a stopover in Hong Kong – I really must see something of this fascinating destination on my next trip ‘down under.’

View of Sydney Opera House and Botannical Gardens

I’m currently on a short family visit to Sydney in Australia – one of my all-time favourite places.

My last visit was over three years ago when Alec and I sailed from Singapore to Sydney on the inaugural visit of the cruise ship Arcadia. Arriving by sea was a memorable experience,  as we sailed into Sydney Harbour through the North and South Heads and saw the iconic views of the Opera House, city skyscrapers and famous Harbour Bridge.

On that trip,  customs and immigration officers boarded the ship at Freemantle to process passenger visas and entry documentation. The whole procedure was friendly and informal and when we disembarked the ship all we had to do was walk down the gangway.

Arriving by air this time was a totally different experience. Long, long queues through passport control as the early morning flights discharged their passengers. I really felt for the families with tired kids. However, the queues moved pretty quickly and I was surprised that my bags weren’t scanned, as I’d ticked the box on the customs form stating  I’d brought food into Oz (Easter chocolate bunnies).

I flew to Sydney with Virgin Atlantic via Hong Kong. My seat was reasonably comfortable, cabin crew on both flights (Heathrow to Hong Kong and Hong Kong to Sydney) were friendly and professional and the inflight entertainment offered an excellent choice of new movies, popular TV programmes  and more. Unfortunately, the inflight meals were really dreadful.

On most long haul flights, cabin service begins with passengers being offered a pre-dinner drink. Not on Virgin Atlantic. Drinks and dinner arrive at the same time – on a teeny tiny tray with barely enough space for a plastic beaker. As mentioned, the food was awful – frozen and inedible starter salad, butter too cold to spread on stale bread role and a nondescript main course. Only the dessert was up to standard. Oddly, after dinner, tea and hot chocolate were served but not coffee! However, one of the cabin attendants made me a cup after the meals service had been cleared away.

With the cost of flying becoming more and more expensive, is it really too much to ask for a pre-dinner drink and for the meal to include a small portion of cheese and crackers and a piece of chocolate on a 23-hour flight?

It’s fantastic being back in this beautiful vibrant city and I’m enjoying revisiting Bondi Beach, Bronte and the Botannical Gardens. Weather has been a mix of warm sunny days interspersed with heavy torrential rain – but at least the temperatures are in the mid 20s. Today we went into the National Park and enjoyed time at pretty Jibbon Beach and Bundeena. On the way home we saw a double rainbow and the most glorious golden sunset.

Jibbon beach, NSW

The weather here in Javea is hot and sunny – just as it is back in the UK at the moment – though the wind still has a slight chill factor and last week’s torrential rain has left puddles at some of the road junctions.

Our garden is a depressing sight! The apple and pomegranate trees are still bare, the bougainvilleas have frost damage (for the second year) and the garden walls have seen better days. Weeds have taken over the flowerbeds and shingle paths and I won’t mention the state of the citrus trees. Only a tub of cheerful pink daisies brightens the gloom – it’s as though  all our previous efforts, pruning, tidying up, weeding and watering have been for nothing – most disheartening.

Cheerful Spanish daisies!

But little by little, Spain works its magic on my psyche. A few hours of much needed sleep – a reviving coffee and we’re both out tackling the weeds – Alec does the paths and I make a start on the flower beds. Thanks to my iPod shuffle, I can weed while listening to my favourite LBC Radio podcasts. Alec hears me laughing at Steve Allen and smiles. The garden’s looking better already – it’s going to be a good week!

I arrived late and rushed but emerged calm and refreshed after my Total Face and Body Polish treatment, one of the spa’s new face and body combination treatments.

Elemis Day Spa, Mayfair

It’s hardly surprising that the flagship home of the renowned Elemis skincare brand has won a host of awards since opening 10 years ago. It’s the perfect urban retreat, a peaceful haven tucked away in a quiet courtyard, minutes from Bond Street and the bustle of the city. Just stepping inside the welcoming candle lit reception lounge is instantly becalming.

Moroccan-themed treatment rooms are located on several  floors and include couples suites and London’s first rasul mud chamber, while an extensive spa menu offers quality facials and body therapies, male grooming, detox programmes and treatments for mothers-to-be.

On a previous visit, I’d experienced a sublime Four Hands Massage with frangipani oil, carried out  in a treatment room at the top of the building. This time I was shown to a cosy room downstairs for a Total Face and Body Polish, a new addition to the spa menu that promised to ‘invigorate the body and smooth the skin to perfection.’ Just what I needed!

After short health check, therapist Amanda left me to undress and lie on the treatment bed under an ornate cover. On her return, she checked I was comfortable, then asked me to take three deep breaths before the treatment began with a relaxing and warming Elemis foot cleansing ritual. After some brisk body brushing to stimulate the circulation and increase my skin’s absorption of the products, I was massaged with deliciously warm oil. This was followed by a gentle rice exfoliator  to smooth and polish my skin.  After massaging my feet, I was enveloped in a warm wrap while Amanda concentrated on my face.

Makeup was removed with a gentle rose petal cleanser and my face and neck thoroughly cleansed and nourished with other divine smelling products. A facial mask was applied and while it worked its magic on my skin, my neck and shoulders enjoyed an expert massage with smooth hot stones and Japanese Camelia Oil. Blissful!

Time for an invigorating shower!  After drying off, more luxurious products were applied to my body (Pro-Collagen Body Cream) and face (Pro-Collagen Marine Cream), before I was brought back to reality with the gentle sound of tingsha bells.

Elemis Day Spa, 2-3 Lancashire Court, Mayfair, London, W1S 1EX

Telephone: 020 7499 4995 or email elemisday@elemis.com

Elemis Total Face and Body Polish (55 minutes / £85)

Silversea not only arranged transport to the airport – but also an entertaining tour of the island and lunch on the wild east coast, before dropping us (and the other British passengers) off at the airport for our evening flight.

We had a lovely guide Lissette and a friendly driver and it was a good experience. The only disappointment was discovering that the Concorde exhibition at Barbados Airport was closed. As our flight was delayed by an hour, it would have been a useful diversion.

Spice Island Resort Pool, Grand Anse Beach

Individual villa, Spice Island Beach Resort

We spent a nostalgic half day at the exclusive Spice Island Beach Resort, where we spent our honeymoon many moons ago! Back then, it was called Spice Island Inn and we chose it because we loved the name – it sounded so exotic! It was a delight to return and find the resort looking just as special as we remembered it. Ryan Hopkin, son of the owner Sir Royston Hopkin, gave us a warm welcome and an interesting tour of the rooms and facilities, which have been added since our first visit. The resort was closed for over a year after Hurricane Ivan devastated Grenada in 2004, damaging 90 per cent of homes on the island and wiping out the nutmeg and cocoa markets, which are only now beginning to recover.

Since our visit to Salvador, Silver Spirit has called at the Brazilian ports of Recife, Fortaleza and Belem and at Scarborough in Tobago in the Caribbean. It’s been fascinating exploring these new (to us) parts of the world.

In Recife, a courtesy coach service to and from the city was available to passengers wanting to explore independently. We were dropped off at a modern shopping mall with several ATMs,  so finally had some Brazilian currency to spend!  Recife is the cultural and economic capital of northeastern Brazil, and like Salvador, has many historic churches and buildings dating back to colonial times during the era of the sugar cane boom. The city  is built around three rivers and connected by 49 bridges.

We looked around the mall then walked across one of the bridges. It was very hot and we regretted not opting for the shore excursion to Boa Viagem, a four-mile stretch of urban sand south of the city. If we ever return to these parts, we will make time to visit the beaches and also go to Olinda, the charming old state capital and UNESCO  World Heritage Site, with cobbled streets and colourful houses. We’d also like to stay on Fernando de Noronha, an unspoilt island off the northeast coast of Brazil that offers fantastic beaches and some of the best scuba diving in Brazil.

Silver Spirit docked at Recife, Brazil

View of Fortaleza from Silver Spirit

Salvador de Bahia

After the excitement of Rio, we had a full day at sea before our first port of call – Salvador de Bahia. The capital of Brazil until 1763, and now the capital of the Bahia region and of African Brazil, Salvador has a population of 3.2 million and boasts the largest and liveliest street carnival in the country. The city is built on a series of cliffs and hills at the end of a peninsula separating Brazil’s largest bay, Baia de Todos os Santos from the Atlantic. The bay is dotted with beaches and islands, some privately owned and others for public use and  served by ferries.

Salvador is divided into two levels, the Upper City, home to the Pelourinho and historic centre and the Lower City, with the commercial and docks areas. The steep hills dividing the two levels are connected by a public lift (Lacerda Elevator) and a funicular railway. Most of the interesting sights in Salvador are in the Centro Historico, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with one of the largest collection of baroque buildings in the world.

Lacerda Elevator and view from the upper city, Salvador

At each port, a local tourism officer came on board and manned a desk to assist passengers with maps and information. We had decided to explore Salvador independently and asked the representative for directions to the Lacerda elevator and an ATM (we hadn’t seen one since arriving in Brazil – even on our brief outing in Rio).  She explained that there was no ATM in the port area but a few centavos were needed for the elevator. She then delved into her own purse for 60 centavos (about 25p) and urged us to take the coins, refusing to take a  US$ in exchange.  The Lacerda elevator, one of the landmarks of Salvador, would take us from the nearby Mercado Modelo market in the Lower City up to Praça Municipal (Tomé de Sousa) and the historic centre in the Upper City.

Coins in hand, we disembarked and walked the short distance to the market area where we joined a short queue for the elevator. After being whisked up 236 feet in about a minute, we stepped out onto the Paço Municipal – a large plaza with views of the bay on one side and the Palacio Rio Branco on the other. The impressive white building was once the headquarters of the colonial government of Brazil, and today houses Salvador’s Chamber of Commerce and state tourist office.

We took photos of the plaza and views of the bay and elevator, then walked into the city’s most famous colonial square, the Terreiro de Jesus, which is surrounded by churches, including a Baroque cathedral (Catedral Basilica), museums and 17th-century houses painted in pastel colours. Although recently renovated, the square seemed in a state of chaos; the recent carnival’s temporary buildings were being dismantled and added to the noise and dust of other building and roadworks.

This part of Old Salvador is known as the Pelourinho and is renowned for its cobbled narrow streets and adjoining squares lined with old buildings and ancient churches, each with its own fascinating history. Some of the colonial houses have been converted into restaurants, small hotels, shops and bars from which African rhythms roll forth. Other buildings have become artists’ workshops, galleries or handicrafts shops – their colourful wares spilling out over the narrow pavements. On some streets, smiling turbaned women in voluminous white dresses handed out advertising fliers and posed for tourist cameras.

Afro-Brazilian ladies in Salvador de Bahia

We retraced our steps back to the cathedral and found the entrance hidden behind some roadworks machinery. It is one of Salvador’s many impressive grand churches and we paid a few US dollars to enter. The interior felt cool and calming after the heat and frenetic activity outside. Originally built as a Jesuit college , the cathedral’s  high vaulted panelled ceiling is made of carved and gilded wood. It has a grand Rococo altar,  side chapels and many other interesting rooms and surprising features such as a quiet garden with a statue of Christ the Redeemer.

Our hearts sank when we returned to the elevator for our ride down to the Lower City, as a long queue stretched round the square. We patiently stood in line for about half an hour as only three of the four elevators were working. When we finally emerged, the queue for the ascending elevator was even longer than at the top and snaked right down to the port.

You can’t visit Salvador without remembering the suffering and mistreatment of the African slaves during the 17th – 19th century. It is a fitting tribute that their legacy lives on in the culture, monuments and museums of this remarkable city.

I’m writing this in our spacious suite on board the beautiful cruise ship Silver Spirit. We’re embarking on a 15-night adventure that will take us from Rio de Janeiro up to Barbados in the Caribbean.

After a somewhat delayed transfer from the airport (roads leading to the port were closed because it is ‘Carnaval’), Alec and I arrived on board after midnight to welcoming smiles, iced towels and chilled champagne. We were shown to our suite on Deck 7 and introduced to Renan, our butler, who will take care of our needs on the voyage. He had already prepared a light supper and a bottle of champagne for us in case we were hungry after our long flight.

Our spacious suite is well equipped with twin beds, a sitting area and a teak-floored fitted marble bathroom complete with full sized bathtub and an excellent separate shower. Between the bathroom and bedroom we have a walk-in wardrobe with a deep six-drawer chest, generous hanging space and hangers and a useful shoe rack. We also have two TVs within the mirrored walls of the bedroom and lounge and floor to ceiling glass windows that open onto a spacious teak verandah. I can see us spending time here enjoying the magnificent ocean environment as we relax on the loungers.

We slept late on our first morning and arrived at the Terrazza  restaurant for breakfast just as it was about to close. Fortunately, the friendly waiters didn’t seem to mind our tardiness and showed us to a table on the outside deck in the sunshine. It seemed surreal eating omelettes and drinking coffee with views of the  10-mile Rio-Niterói bridge on one side and the run down port buildings on the other. Silver Spirit was just one of a long line of elegant cruise ships ( Azamara Journey, Crystal Symphony,  Costa Victoria and the Veendam) docked in Rio that morning

A Rio Tourism representative was on the concierge desk in the reception area. We asked her how we could spend a couple of hours in the city and she suggested taking one of the complimentary trips into Rio organised by H Stern, one of Brazil’s largest jewellers. In return for a short tour of the H Stern workshop near Ipanema beach on the other side of Rio, we would be get a chauffeur driven ride and see some of the sights. Afterwards, we could walk down to the beach, mingle with the crowds and experience the excitement and vibrancy of the city. As long as we returned to the workshop before 5pm, we would be taken back to the ship.

The drive to the H Stern workshop took us through two mountain tunnels and around a picturesque lagoon with views of Corcovado – Christ the Redeemer.  We also saw many of the floats preparing for the street parades later that night. The workshop tour was fascinating and educational – we had no idea that Brazil was such a rich source of gold, silver and precious and semi-precious gems. Much of the jewellery was exquisite, but with prices starting at around £700 for the most modest trinket, we resisted the temptation to buy.

Ipanema Beach February 2012

Walking down the side road and onto Ipanema beach afterwards was an experience in itself! The busy crowded streets had a real ‘festive’ feel yet the traffic moved dangerously fast. Some people were clad in skimpy beach wear and Havaianas, others were dressed in elaborate costumes. When we finally crossed onto the sea front, the long stretch of Ipanema beach was a seething mass of humanity!  Scantily clad bodies of every shape, colour and size were either stretched out under orange or yellow parasols, playing beach volleyball or standing at the water’s edge, chatting and jumping out of the way of the thundering waves. The sand was perfect – soft, white and clean.

One day is not enough to do Rio justice and we resolved to return to the Cidade Maravilhosa (marvellous city) when it is not quite so manic to see more of its amazing sights, urban beaches and fabulous parks.

We were up early on Tuesday morning as Silver Spirit slowly left the passenger terminal at Praça Mauá. As she edged out into the Atlantic, we enjoyed spectacular views of  Corcovado, Copacabana and Ipanema beaches and the Sugar Loaf mountain.

This week’s press trip is one such example. Instead of the cold grey climes of January in the UK,  I’m writing this from the lush warmth of the Indian Ocean. I’m staying at the wonderful Maradiva Resort, an all villa all pool resort on the far west coast of Mauritius.  For four special days and nights, I have the use of a private villa, sumptuously furnished  with its own plunge pool,  garden with frangipani tree and outdoor shower, just a few yards from a soft sandy beach.  The sun is hot, the temperature is about 30°C  and the sea warm enough that even I can plunge straight in without the slightest hesitation. A few short weeks ago, Maradiva was fully booked with rich Russian families celebrating the New Year. Many had flown in by private jet.

Maravdiva Resort Beach

We travelled from London Heathrow with Air Mauritius – and are now enjoying the many amenities of  this exclusive resort, which has established a reputation for excellence in the travel industry. Mauritius and the surrounding ocean are ours to explore for a few magical days – we can snorkel in a glass bottom boat, swim with a pod of over 50 dolphins,  explore Port Louis, the island’s capital or just relax amid beautiful surroundings enjoying the beach-side setting, flowers and colourful birds.

I’ll be writing at greater length about my experiences in the Maradiva Spa, where we had daily yoga sessions and therapeutic ayurvedic treatments

Well,  must close now as I’m off for a swim in the ocean before joining my colleagues for dinner. On a day like this, travel writing really IS the best job in the world!

Winter is always a great time time to visit Spain; very few tourists and although the Med may be too cold for bathing  (well, it is for me!) the deserted beaches are particularly appealing. What’s more, there’s no better value in the whole of Spain than breakfast at Scallops in Javea – sitting on an outside table overlooking the Arenal beach we tucked into a tasty beautifully  cooked breakfast of fried egg, bacon, sausage, beans and tomato for just €1.95. Amazing value!