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Lucy Daltroff returns to the Balearic island of Mallorca and finds it as lovely as ever.

Balearic island of Mallorca

Enjoying Majorca

Lucy Daltroff returns to the Balearic island of Mallorca and finds it as lovely as ever.


I couldn’t understand why I hadn’t been back to Mallorca since I was a teenager. It’s gorgeous, with good weather and most of it scenic and unspoilt. No wonder celebrities have homes in this, the largest of the Balearic Islands.

I spent my first night in the heart of the capital, Palma in a 16th century manor house (now the Hotel Dalt Murada), which has been owned by the same family for 200 years. When I opened my window and saw across the rooftops the sun shining on La Seu – the huge Gothic Roman Catholic Cathedral ¬– my heart sang from the beauty of it.

The cathedral was begun in 1230 and the maze of streets nearby is full of atmosphere. Some of the historic houses have magnificent stone staircases running down to courtyards. In contrast, modern Palma with its art galleries, Mediterranean cafes and smart shops, belies all tales of the recession in Spain. After shopping and visiting the galleries it was relaxing to have a healthy lunch at the fashionable Hotel Tres, with its original architectural features and modern artworks.

The bustling Placa d’Espanya is the transport hub of the city, from where, the day before, I had taken the rickety narrow-gauge wooden railway train for the hour’s trip to Soller in the north west of the island. The route has been operated in this same manner for over 100 years and although a bit of a tourist experience, is still worth doing and a great way to take in the varied countryside. I could have stayed in attractive Soller itself, but impulsively went on the quaint orange tram for the 20 minutes trip to Port de Soller, with its fine horseshoe shaped harbour surrounded by the Tramuntana mountains. A day spent by the seaside, visiting the restaurants and cafes was a fun way to spend some time.


My main base was the resort of Illetas, six miles west of Palma, and home to the stylish Bon Sol hotel. The lovely Xamena family has owned it for 60 years. Lorraine, originally from Buckinghamshire, is married to Martin, whose father first opened the hotel. It is the couple’s thought and attention to detail that makes it all comfortable and well managed and I was not surprised to hear that 80 per cent of their clients are returnees.


Twelve years ago they added The Nirvana Spa, a wellness centre with a light and airy reception area and a spacious relaxation lounge, wet spa and a number of specialised treatment rooms including a Vichy shower therapy cabin. The spa uses products from the French company, Sothys.

Ayurveda, thalassotherapy balneotherapy and algotherme are all available; thalassotherapy includes a Seawater Pearl Ritual Facial, Marine Body Wrap and Body Firming, while the Ayurveda embraces Abhyanga and Indian Head Massage. Holistically there is traditional reflexology and “soft touch” foot relax as well as Thai and Balinese massages.

I had a facial with a new hydration-generating programme using an ultra moisturising balm to strengthen the skin’s barrier function and boost cell regeneration. It consisted of cleansing, peeling, a massage with cream and vitamins and two masks. I felt very pampered at the end and have to admit that immediately afterwards my skin felt softer. I was advised to follow it up a couple of days later in the spa with an oxygenation treatment. Maria, my therapist, explained that skin produces millions of toxins every day even without counting those that come from external factors such as stress and pollution. These asphyxiate the skin and make it harder for it to renew itself, and the oxygenation helps it to breathe.

In the summer months many of the treatments, especially the massages, are also available at the beachside spa area located on a quiet outdoor terrace enjoying great views out to sea.

On my next visit, I would love to try the latest spa treat on offer as a real pick me up and indulgence – a three day Soul to Toe Makeover. Each day starts with either tai chi or yoga followed on the first day by a detox balneotherapy treatment, abhyanga Indian detoxifying massage and a customised facial. The second day includes reflexology and a manicure, while on the third day there is a tuina massage, a collagen and hyaluronic acid facial with eye contour treatment and a deluxe pedicure. A hair re-styling follows, and while Kirsten the beauty manager applies make up, she also gives suggestions and advice. This three-day package costs €760 and can be spread over a longer visit if required.

The other healthy options on offer for all guests at the Bon Sol are a large gym and a yoga class taken by Sarah Jane every weekday morning and tai chi every afternoon with Nathaniel. There is also a miniature golf course, three swimming pools and two restaurants.

Now that I know exactly what is on offer, I definitely won’t be leaving it for so long before returning to Mallorca.

Hotel Dalt Murada
www.daltmurada.comHotel Bon Sol Resort & Spa
www.hotelbonsol.esLucy travelled by National Express coaches to London Gatwick.Classic Collection Holidays (0800 294 9315) offers 3 nights (7 nights) at the Bon Sol in Illetas, Mallorca from £569 (£953) per person.

Price(s) based on 2 adults sharing on a half board basis and includes return flights from London Gatwick to Palma and private transfers.
An upgrade to a junior suite sea view room adds £28 per person per night.

Visit your local travel agent or www.classic-collection.co.uk

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